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Loop Road

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Click on any thumbnail to view a larger image

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South Florida is well known for it’s bird and photography "hot spots" in the winter months. As a native of South Florida, I spend a large amount of time exploring and photographing these and other less known areas. There is a myriad of highly rewarding photographic opportunities throughout the Florida wilderness areas.

Loop Road, a twenty six mile drive through the Big Cypress Swamp, offers such an opportunity. The road travels through a remote and beautiful area of the Big Cypress Swamp National Preserve, a photographic treasure of birds, wildlife, cypress swamps and wetlands. This road remains one of my favorite places; every visit results in new and creative images.

The Big Cypress Swamp lies just north of the Everglades, which is a unique watery combination of hardwoods and swamps covering over two million acres, more than half of southern Florida. The Big Cypress, covering over 700,000 acres, differs from the Everglades in that it has a slightly raised terrain with standing water covering most of its swamp. The Everglades, on the other hand, is famous for its wetlands and constantly flowing ‘river of grass’. Together, the Big Cypress and the Everglades cover most of the area between densely populated cities on the east and west coasts of Florida. Both are well known to be in perilous danger from chemicals, pollution and population.

Access to Loop Road is along US 41 at two points, both on the south side of the highway. The west access is at Monroe Station, an old hunting lodge, while the east access is at the ‘forty mile bend’, about four miles west of Shark Valley, a part of Everglades National Park. From the east access, Loop Road is a paved road for the first ten miles and then becomes an unimproved, single lane road that passes through cypress and wetland habitats over the remaining sixteen miles.

For this article, we’ll enter Loop Road from the east, at the forty mile bend. The east portion generally has more bird and wildlife activity in the morning. As a bonus, the light along the middle and west portion of the road remains good later in the morning because of the canopies of bald cypress and other trees.

The first two miles pass through a new residential area in the Miccosukee Indian reservation. The Reservation, in the heart of the Everglades, has expanded considerably over the past ten years, using special care to blend new construction with the environment in order to retain the essence of the swamp. The Miccosukees have lived in the Everglades since the mid 1800’s, and the Tribe’s current population exceeds 500 members.

Once past the residential area, you enter the National Preserve and begin to encounter ponds, wetlands and ecosystems frequented by wading birds and wildlife. You may see herons, ibises, egrets, limpkins, bitterns, purple gallinules, ducks, anhingas and woodstorks, along with alligators, otter, deer and turtles. Most of the wading bird activity occurs along the first ten miles of Loop Road. The best months for bird activity are January through March, but some type of activity occurs year round.

During the driest part of the year (late winter into spring), many of the ponds attract a large number of alligators, creating gator holes, and the birds move on to other spots. Beside wading birds, there are many other species. Look carefully among the trees, rocks and wetlands and you’ll see hawks, osprey, kites, barred owls, woodpeckers and a wide variety of other birds. These non-waders are encountered anywhere along Loop Road.

To photograph birds on Loop Road, you should have a long lens (preferably 400mm or longer plus teleconverters) and a sturdy tripod. Use the car as a blind or park a distance from the activity and walk back.  I’ll generally shoot from the car along Loop Road since the road is narrow and the action occurs fairly close to the road. When photographing from the car, use a Kirk beanbag or a window mount to support your camera and lens, especially when using a long lens. A towel or shirt rolled up will double as a beanbag in a pinch. 

While photographing scenics and landscapes, stay attuned to the light. The cypress canopies can create a mottled effect during full sunlight, which may or may not be desirable. On the other hand, watch for individual beams of sunlight streaming down and creating highlighted images. Consider using a portable reflector and white umbrella to diffuse the sunlight and create golden reflected light.

Ten miles in from US 41, you’ll pass a small community of two or three houses along with the National Park Loop Road Environmental Center. This is where the pavement ends and the road becomes unimproved for the next sixteen miles. Although rocky, the unimproved portion of the road is generally accessible by two-wheel-drive vehicles. The wilderness takes over at this point, and the road travels through some beautiful areas of the Big Cypress. During the rainy season watch for water flowing over the road, along with hidden potholes.

Several trails lead off of Loop Road. Most are for amphibious vehicles of which a few are accessible by foot during the dry season. The trails traverse open prairies, bald cypress stands, pine hammocks, wetlands and swamps. Although generally not accessible by foot during the wet season, a short walk during dry season can result in creative and dramatic scenic images. For the more adventurous, you can wade through the swamp. If you do, protect your equipment and wade slowly; at times it is difficult to maintain footing in the mucky swamp.

Take your time and explore off road. On the north side of the road in the middle and west portions, look for ghostly remains of abandoned houses and vehicles. These structures can create unusual settings for images. Remember that you are in the swamp; watch for snakes (there are several venomous species), vermin and poisonous plants. This is their territory; tread lightly and do not intrude on them. Also, there are still private homes in the National Preserve; they are well marked so be sure to respect their privacy and do not trespass.

Since the Big Cypress Swamp is a diverse ecosystem you will encounter a wide variety of wildlife. Shortly after sunrise watch for otter, deer, red fox, and the endangered, elusive Florida panther. Alligators and turtles can be seen in the canal running along Loop Road throughout the day, and photographing a gator in the midst of a kill can produce remarkable images. This might take an investment of time and patience, though. Otters are a challenge to photograph since they are constantly on the move and can be shy at times.

Bromeliads (air plants) and other wildflowers bloom throughout the year in the Big Cypress. Many of the flowers and plants are excellent subjects for both landscape and close-up or macro work. 

A few hours exploring along Loop Road creates a wealth of photographic opportunities in a diverse portion of the Big Cypress Swamp National Preserve. Enjoy the area, tread lightly, and "pack it in, pack it out" – don’t litter and don’t damage anything. Leave the area as it was when you arrived, and you’ll find Loop Road both a memorable and rewarding Big Cypress experience.